Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Day 9 Positano 4/8/2012

Day 9 Positano 4/8/2012 Oh what a beautiful town this really is. I woke early and decided I would walk up to the top this morning. Ate a huge breakfast of croissants and toast -i think the owners thought I was a pig..lol....the peach jam here is to die for. I found the police station to make my report, but they had ZERO english, but eventually got across the point that i had to go back to Capri to make my report as it was a different jurisdiction....Ce la vis, I was going back anyway. I started walking up the hill on the road....it was hot and a very long way....and the locals that I talked to thought I was mad. But I made it. Stopped for a water break about halfway and chatted to some Aussies.....they were from Shepparton...and knew the Townsends who we used to camp with at Beaufort every easter.....Its a truly small world!!! Onward and upward I trudged, but I made it, and the views were spectacular as were some of the sights I saw along the way. I find walking you see so much more...and quite frankly, if I didnt do the exercise I would gain so much weight here. It took me a good hour and a half to walk up and about 15 going down as I took the stairs downward. I took some amazing photos. Got back to the hotel and stood in the cold shower for about 10 minutes gasping as I had got so hot.....eventually though I started feeling so much better...sucked in at least 2 litres of water..went and found some lunch, a swim and then back to the room for a siesta before restaurant prep. Restaurant prep was good fun, the chef's had no english, but I told them what I was making in italian. They helped out making the two sauces, and were amazed by the gnocci, we set it out in the sun to dry with big gauze sheets over the top. I made one plate of each type for the owner, and he just kept saying wow, wow.....and did I want a job he even rushed to his mate next door with it. I also made two very large pavlovas...8 eggs, to be served with cream and lots of fresh fruit. The chefs were amazed at how easy my recipe is, and how light and crunchy it was. I think it will be on the menu from now on. I left the restaurant with 60 euro for my pleasure and a free meal later that night. By the time I ate at 10pm, there was no gnocci left....they had sold it all......5kg of it (they had put it on the specials board) and my desert had long gone. Wow, what a success it was. I ate on my own, reflective of my day, and then later at 1.30am met the chefs for drinks down at the pier...it was strange to be drinking with people who had zero english...but somehow, we understood each other and it was ok. Positano was very very safe.

Day 8- Capri - Positano 3/8/2012

Day 8- Capri - Positano 3/8/2012 Ah, farewell to Capri, but I am coming back! Got up early and had a swim before breakfast, breakfast and shower. Turns out I was robbed while I was in the shower but didnt realise until I got down to the port to buy my ticket for the ferry and not one dollar was in my purse or my handbag..damn...fortunately though, they left all my cards and I recovered quickly. Went and got cash from an atm and caught my ferry to Positano as planned. Oh well, will have to report to Positano police. The ferry ride was beautiful, beers were cheap so I had one on the ferry over and chatted to some Oz backpackers....lovely girls. We made plans to meet up later at midnight at the pier as apparently they had the cheapest beer. I found my hotel easy enough....only a very short walk up steep steps from the port. Just as well I only had an overnight bag with me as the porters were charging 50euro to get bags from the port to hotels. My room was beautiful and very clean on the top floor of the hotel....more stairs and no lift...the staff (owners) were super helpful with everything. I found a local panini shop supermarket not far away...yum lunch..and they sold drinks as well...so bought half a dozen mojito breezers... some extra munchies and went back to the hotel for a while to get out of the afternoon sun. I wandered down the cool alleys and found a nice cool spot to sit and munch and watch the world go by. I chatted to a chef from a local restaurant, and was explaining about my cooking classes in Rome. He asked if maybe I could make gnocci and a desert he would talk to his boss about me doing some prep work in the restaurant......the boss said yes!! I asked for some 5kg of grungy potatoes to be cooked that day and let sit mashed in a colander overnight in the fridge. I went and swam at the beach (another rock garden) and it was a bit grungy as the beach was too close to where the ferries pulled in and you could smell the diesel sometimes. I enjoyed the cool water just the same and had a lovely chat with a couple from Arizona, David and Stephanie Johnson...more friends. We arranged to meet for dinner that night at a restaurant nearby...at 9.30. We went to a bar for a cocktail in the cool...yummy margarita and then i went back to my room for siesta and a couple of mojitos. Showered and got ready for dinner..Lovely meal....and it was nice to share conversation with new people. Was telling them about my beautiful family and showed some pictures. Brent's story made him have tears in his eyes..his nephew is 10 and has aspergers and mum and dad have basically given up as behaviourally he is very challenging (lol, and Brent wasnt at 10..he was a nightmare)...he said that I have given a story to tell them and to encourage them to keep on working with him. My motto is never give up! They said what a great marriage we truly have to give each other the space, to encourage each other so much and to work together as a real team, especially after 23 years..they just kept saying wow,..but what could I say but I am married to my best friend, my confident, my cheerleader and my lover. Unfortunately they arent on Facebook, but have an email address.....until we meet again my friends...and we will somewhere. I can't imagine me getting to the Arizona desert, but somewhere we will meet. What a day.

Friday, August 3, 2012

Day 7 Capri, one of the special days of my life

How to describe one of the most beautiful days I have had on this earth, apart from giving birth and getting married, this would have to be just one of the aha moments of my life. I woke up around 10.15am....a miracle in itself for me to sleep in!! Caught breakfast only just..and then decided I really needed to do something with my day. I booked a private boat tour around the island for 2pm. I needed cash, so I took the car to town. I found the bank easily enough, and had a quick browse and headed back to the room. Caught the boat tour at 2pm...Oh it was beautiful.....headed out clockwise around the island....the first stop was the green grotto....I swam through the cave and the boat met me on the other side. I hope the photos work out with the underwater camera I bought....wont know until I get it developed. The water was crystal clear, very deep and brilliant green. Guissepe was on the other side waiting for me with a rinse off, a towel and a glass of champagne. We took the boat further around to Anacapri....its where all the really private villas are..owned by so many famous people. They were just stunning. There are small Roman forts on every point.... He took me a bit further out and asked if I wanted to sunbathe..I said no, as I would burn, so he decided a massage instead...I think just to see me topless lol, oh but the massage was so good...nearly an hour of it..I was like butter....a proposition followed, but I was so good.... Another swim and we were off again around the island..the views were stunning. Lots of history including little holes where the Germans hid at the end of the war. The blue grotto was so interesting...you paid small boats to take you into the cave, you had to lay down in the boat as they dragged the boat into the cave through a hole just big enough for a boat to go through.....Inside was absolutely stunning......the cave was pitch black except for the brilliant iridescent blue water. I noticed signs outside that said swimming was strictly forbidden, but when the small boat picked me up from the Gui Gui, Guissepe told Giovani (an absolute gorgeously fit good looking italian) to look after his girl in Italian...so Giovani pulled the boat to the back of the cave to the Women's swimming pool, and I jumped in....I swam for about 5 minutes and it was strange to see your body lit up by the water....Inside the cave, all the boatmen were singing in amazing voices Oh so Maria....it was just such a surreal experience that I will remember forever. I tipped Giovani for the experience as he was so lovely..and on with the tour around the island. We stopped for another swim...this time Guiseppe joined me, I think he was having as much fun as I was, as we were jumping off the boat and laughing so much. More champagne, and a gradual cruise to Capri town...it looked beautiful from the water... Cruised around Fragiali Rocks....(they are the big ones you can see from my room) and more swimming...then cruised around the big yachts and small ships...suprisingly quite a few had Australian flags...Would love to know who owns them. Then we cruised back to the dock in front of my hotel. Guissepe gave me a parting kiss and told me that my husband was a very lucky man.....Now that was 120 euro well spent...an 1 1/2 hour tour that lasted 3 1/2. Went out for dinner to an amazing restaurant recommended to me by Megan Castran, Villa Verde. The food was wonderful, but also their was a really nice atmosphere. I have never seen a restaurant owner so active in building rapport with his guests. He even sat at my table for a couple of minutes to ask why I was alone. I explained that I was meeting Stevo in Paris next week and that circumstances didnt allow us long trips together. He was so lovely. I had deepfried mozzarella with caper and anchovy sauce, grilled spatchcock with mustard and vegetables and strawberry meringue tart...a couple of wines of course. A very special meal. As I was walking out the owner again came to say goodbye with a big hug and a until you return.... Oh what a wonderful day I had

Thursday, August 2, 2012

Day 6 Capri-LOVE IT

Day 5 Capri Capri is just stunning..its water is crystal clear bright blue..and so pretty. This morning I woke up pretty energetic...wandered up to the gym at 6am and walked on the treadmill for 20 minutes and the exercise bike for 10 and then did some ab exercises. I'm so glad I did. The breakfast was beautiful....I had fresh fruit and the most deliciously fresh warm croissants.....then I decided I really needed some things....sunscreen and batteries for my camera mainly, so off to the piazza I went. I spent the whole morning wandering..I walked down to the the port and then back up to the piazza..through tiny lane ways Oh the fire station was so cute...they looked like fireman sam fire trucks. They are small electric trucks, small enough to get into at least most of the lane ways. There is only one road that goes down to the port and there is inches between the cars and trucks as they pass each other..I notice that a lot of them don't have mirrors any more lol. The rest of the town is narrow lanes...and electric carts are used for deliveries. You don't see any fat locals......they walk everywhere. Old women struggling with their bags of groceries through the steep lane ways. I shopped for hours..not that I bought anything...will go back later maybe to pick up a souvenir or two...I bought a shirt to go over my bathers....being a redhead, I just can't sit in the sun, even though here, I dont seem to get burnt. Everyone seems to be wearing these beautiful sparkly sandals......lol, at 100-150 euro a pair....I think I won't be buying those. Of course being a pretty wealthy resort, there are all the designers shops, Prada, channel etc..saw the most beautiful pair of bathers, and tried them on..but at 475 euro......I dont think so lol. I got lost again....haha, I really must remember to pick up maps and wandered for an hour or so..but found a shop with the most delicious big cherries and fresh peaches ...yum ....lunch. Finally found my way back to the piazza and caught a lift back to the hotel. I sat around all afternoon chilling..a swim or two in the pool, and just relaxed. Didnt really talk to anyone, just chilled on my own, enjoying my own company. I decided to just eat in the hotel so I wandered upstairs and had pizza and salad. I can never finish half of the plate as it is so much...and so cheap 14 euro for my entire meal....This has been the most expensive hotel booked for my trip, but the cheapest on food and drink for sure so it averages out at the same per day really. Oh and the eye candy around here for us girls is just stunning. Have a Richard Gere look alike in the room 3 doors up....he is the most stunning looking man (oh and single)..perhaps all my single friends should come here instead of bali, believe me, the men are so much nicer looking. I will try to get a photo of him later...ooh la la. I have been so well behaved on this trip Stevo..no Frenchmen this time lol, just a lot of perving. Still deciding what to do about Naples...Maybe come back here after positano. and do Pompei tour from here instead and catch the earliest ferry to naples on the last day to catch the train to Florence.....means i lose the prepaid accommodation in Naples, but I think I would be safer somehow.

Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Travelling ( a little long, but an interesting day)

Day 4 Travelling. It was sad to leave the hotel this morning. The staff have been so wonderful...we shared lots of laughs..and long conversations especially the night concierge Maurice who kept me company when I couldnt sleep. The breakfast waiter was a very sweet young man..he presented me with a goody bag for my travels, kissed me on the cheek and said he would look us up when he got to Australia. It is his dream to step on Australian soil. Inside the goody bag was fresh peaches, fresh pears, figs, apricots, bottled water and a napkin stolen from the hotel. I got back to my room with tears in my eyes for his thoughtfulness. Its amazing what a cheery "hello Antonio" can do and a conversation about his goals and plans for the future man he will be (he was the same age as Brent).....I obviously touched his life somehow, as he has mine. Maurice cried when he finished his shift and hugged me like a long lost sister. Virginia and I (the day concierge) had a huge belly laugh at the menu...Octopussy stewed with tomato and olives....She presented me with a souvenir menu...and the manager who was english when he was told had the biggest belly laugh about it too......I think its the last time Octopussy is on the menu somehow. When I left, I just felt like I was leaving good friends behind... The taxi driver on the way to the station was busy practicing his English on me and ended up turning off the meter half way there. The same taxi driver as I had before. He came within 10 minutes of the call from the hotel..Sweet.. I have found my italian is so much better than it was...I understand quite a lot. And speak a little too. OMG, the station was an experience....managed to buy my ticket in Italian, and ask which platform and time..10 minutes before the train was due to leave....platform change announced only in italian...I thanked my lucky stars that I could understand a little. My seat was booked on the train and when I got to it, someone else was sitting there....I even managed to ask him what his seat number was as it was my seat...turned out he was wrong carriage. I traveled sitting next to a Englishman who is in shipping for DHL, travelling on business. We chatted the whole way about business and life in general I would have perhaps got his name and number but he asked me out for dinner at the end....at which I said, but you know I am married, thats ok he said....not for me Pal, Stevo awaits..... Got off the train at Naples....thieves and homeless beggars everywhere. Really had to watch myself. This woman came up with a young child in a pram...oh please give me some money my bambino is hungry.....I pretended not to understand, and when I turned to ask a well dressed businessman next to me for a light...she called me a bitch...you understand you bitch she said to me...I fired back in Italian, sorry, but I dont give a shit. I do not give money to beggars with packets of cigarettes in their hands if their kids are hungry or not..priorities. I know I would do anything for my babies...and not pinch them to make them cry for strangers. Another guy came up to me to try to get me to buy something...he worked in a group and I could see them coming on either side...I turned away to protect my bag and as I did so I screwed my heel into his foot. Lets just say I then got a cab as quickly as I could....unfortunately he was a thief also.....the meter must have already been running and I was stung....when I argued the price, he said, but no...definitely am going to watch myself when I go back to Naples....in fact I wish I didnt have to...but to see Vesuvius only and pompei..thankfully only three nights...One night when I travel from positano, one day at vesuvius and and pompei, one day relaxing and I am out of there.......thank goodness for getting a 5 star hotel for this bit. It was so different to Rome and I just felt so on edge and very aware that as a female on my own i am more vulnerable. Got the Ferry to Capri and stood outside on the deck the whole way...it was so good to feel the salt spray in your face and the inside smelled a bit of diesel which I know makes me feel yuck, so I was far better. I definitely have sea legs, everyone else out there were staggering and i just rolled with it...I guess growing up around boats has me very used to it. It was so nice to feel cool after it being so warm in Rome and Naples. I landed in Capri and its like a totally differennt world... got a cab at the ferry terminal to my hotel, it cost 27 euro.....ouch, but the driver said to me, if I need a lift up the hill from now on, and i see him down the hill he will take me for nothing.......he also offered a tour of the island for nothing tomorrow. He seemed very genuine and usually I am a very good pick of character. I will ask about him at the hotel first though. I got to my hotel, and its truly everything I dreamed of.......welcome cocktail ..at the bar...friendly staff and when I got to my room, I could have cried, it is just so clean welcoming and beautiful with my own little courtyard with sunlounges and table overlooking the most incredible view, spa bath in my bathroom and pool about 40 steps down and the room was so cool with the air conditioning. I think thats why they get you to have a drink in the bar, to get the room cool before you get to it.......wow...I am pinching myself...I am in a dream...it makes up for all the trials of my day. just amazing, special and everything I could have hoped for. Oh by the way I overlook brad and angies yacht and sophia lorens house.. I will take photos when I get new batteries for the camera this evening. Oh and the drinkies are so cheap here at the hotel..5 Euro for a cocktail and 3 for a vino, 3 for an italian beer or 4 for imported!!! Met another lovely couple from Perth who I will have dinner with tonight, and another couple on their honeymoon from Peurto Rico...hey stevo, we have friends to stay with now in South America...Something tells me this is my dream!! And to my beautiful friend Megan Castran...thankyou for showing me the goal I was seeking and the guts to get there!!